Caressed by gentle Aegean sea breezes, with century-old Greek stone houses framed by vibrant bougainvillea, bobbing wooden fishing boats, and dramatic cliffs echoing Homer's Odyssey, Eski Foca is one of Turkey's most enchanting coastal towns. Named in antiquity after the playful Mediterranean monk seals (Monachus monachus) that frequent its surrounding islets, ancient Phocaea was the homeland of daring navigators whose fifty-oared galleys crossed the entire Mediterranean to establish major trading colonies in southern France and Italy.
- History and Phocaean Heritage: From Homer's Odyssey to the Sanctuary of Mediterranean Monk Seals
Phocaea was settled during the Aeolian and Ionian migrations of the 11th century BCE. The maritime expertise of its citizens was unparalleled in the ancient world; Phocaean explorers established prosperous maritime colonies including Massalia (modern Marseille), Nikaia (Nice), and Velia (Elea). The seal emblem proudly adorned Phocaea's early electrum coins struck as early as the 6th century BCE.
In classical mythology, the poet Homer placed the mythical Sirens—whose bewitching melodies lured unsuspecting mariners to shipwreck—along the jagged volcanic needles off Foca's coast at Orak Island. Today, these isolated islets, sea caverns, and deep underwater fissures serve as one of the world's most critical protected marine sanctuaries for the critically endangered Mediterranean monk seal.
- Comprehensive Two-Day Itinerary: Siren Rocks Boat Tour, Stone Mansions, and Kozbeyli
Day 1: Siren Rocks Boat Cruise, Beskapilar Castle, and Kucukdeniz Harbor
Begin your exploration boarding a traditional wooden day-boat from Kucukdeniz harbor. The island cruise winds past Incir Island, Fener Island, and Orak Island to view the majestic Siren Rocks from the open sea. Due to strict nature preservation regulations, landing on the islets is prohibited to protect wild seal habitats, offering travelers serene swimming stops in crystalline turquoise bays nearby.
Returning to Kucukdeniz port in the afternoon, wander the pedestrian cobblestone alleys lined with 19th-century Greek stone mansions. Their timber shutters, ornate masonry portals, and flowering courtyards evoke authentic nostalgic Aegean charm.
Follow the shoreline promenade to Beskapilar Castle, constructed by the Genoese and reinforced by the Ottomans. The five arched stone gateways, restored ramparts, and ancient boat slipways serve today as an atmospheric venue for open-air concerts and exhibitions.
Continue to the western tip of the headland to inspect the Outer Fortress (Incir Castle), built in 1678 by the Ottomans to guard the strategic maritime passage between Chios and Lesbos.
Day 2: Temple of Athena, Historic Windmills, Persian Rock Tomb, and Kozbeyli
Start your second morning ascending the ridge to view the ancient Sanctuary of Athena Polias. Dating to the 6th century BCE, the terrace sanctuary commands sweeping views over the twin bays of Foca.
A short walk up the crest leads to Foca's historic stone windmills. Restored on their windswept hilltop, they provide an unmatched panoramic viewpoint capturing both Buyukdeniz and Kucukdeniz bays simultaneously.
Along the Izmir - Foca inland route, make a stop at the monument known as Tas Kule (Persian Rock-Cut Tomb). Hewn entirely from a single massive limestone outcrop in the 4th century BCE, this two-tier mausoleum represents an exceptional fusion of Achaemenid Persian and Anatolian architecture.
Spend the afternoon swimming in the clear waters of Mersinaki Bay or strolling the beach promenade of Yeni Foca, lined with palm trees and modern cafes.
Conclude your trip in the historic 600-year-old stone village of Kozbeyli, nestled amid upland olive hills. Admire the historic stone schoolhouse (Tas Mektep) and unwind in the village square sipping authentic hand-pounded dibek coffee with rich crema.
- Visiting Hours, 2026 Ticket Prices, and Museum Pass Details
- Beskapilar Castle: Open daily 09:00 - 19:00; admission is free of charge.
- Phocaea Archaeological Sanctuary (Temple of Athena): Open-air site accessible daily from sunrise to sunset with free entry.
- Tas Kule Persian Rock Tomb: Located on roadside at km 7 of the Izmir-Foca highway; accessible free of charge all hours.
- Siren Rocks Boat Excursions: Depart daily around 10:30 from Kucukdeniz pier. Full-day trips with lunch cost approximately 600 - 800 TL per person in 2026.
- Monk Seal Conservation Rules: Orak Island and Siren Rocks form a strictly protected Special Environmental Area; landing on the islets and approaching marine caves closer than 100 meters is prohibited by Turkish environmental law.
- Transportation and Road Conditions: IZBAN Rail Link, Local Minibuses, and Parking
- Commuter Rail (IZBAN): Board the IZBAN train from central Izmir to Hatundere Station. Direct connecting ESHOT municipal bus No. 744 departs regularly to central Eski Foca.
- By Car: Take the Izmir - Canakkale Highway (D550) past Menemen, then branch west at the Foca junction for a smooth 26 km divided highway journey.
- Accessing Kozbeyli: Follow the Gencelli turnoff on the Foca highway; a scenic 4 km paved road climbs through olive hills into Kozbeyli.
- Eski Foca to Yeni Foca Shuttles: Local minibuses run along the coastal route every 30 minutes between the two harbor towns.
- Parking Tips: Historic lanes of Eski Foca are narrow and largely pedestrianized. Use designated municipal parking lots at the entrance to Kucukdeniz.
- Foca Gastronomy and Smart Traveler Tips
- Foca Yogurt Parfait and Mastic Ice Cream: Taste traditional mastic-infused goat milk ice cream and sour cherry yogurt sundaes at heritage gelaterias along Kucukdeniz promenade.
- Fresh Red Mullet and Gilt-Head Bream: Dine at seaside tavernas savoring crisp pan-fried red mullet (tekir/barbun), calamari, and wild Aegean samphire greens (deniz borulcesi).
- Hand-Mortared Kozbeyli Dibek Coffee: Savor rich, frothy Turkish coffee freshly ground by wooden pestle in massive stone mortars in Kozbeyli village square.
- Foca Karasi Heritage Wine and Olive Oil: Sample artisanal wines crafted from the ancient indigenous Foca Karasi grape and pick up cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil.
- Local Farmer Markets: Visit the bustling Tuesday farmers market in Eski Foca for fresh wild herbs, homemade pastries (gozleme), and mountain thyme tea.
